From Scoliosis Surgery to the Tokyo Olympics: How Rock Climber Kyra Condie Stays Strong

Livestrong.com可能会通过此故事中的会员链接获得赔偿。
Before she hits the wall, Olympic rock climber Kyra Condie prepares with an activating and strengthening shoulder exercise that's great for athletes of all skill levels.
Image Credit:Courtesy of NBC Olympics/LIVESTRONG.com Creative

Athletes in the 2020 Tokyo Olympic and Paralympic Games share their top tips so you can fuel your body and rock your workouts Like an Olympian.

想象一下,一只手臂从攀岩墙上晃来晃去。您的腿距离地面至少10英尺,如果您摔倒,没有绳索或安全带可以抓住您。

听起来很艰巨?好吧,这对于专业登山者来说是例行公事Kyra Condie(just checkInstagram证明)。

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孔迪是参加参加比赛的四名运动员之一攀登运动at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. It's a new sport for the Summer Games and includes three different events: lead climbing (climbing 49-foot walls with a rope), speed climbing (climbing a 49-foot wall as quickly as possible) and bouldering (climbing a 15-foot wall without a rope).

尽管Condie使这项运动看起来很容易,但她的成功之路有时一直在尝试。在她开始竞争激烈的攀岩后不久,她发现自己患有脊柱侧弯,不得不接受矫正脊柱手术。这意味着这项运动的完全停顿。

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"[The surgery] was the biggest physical obstacle I encountered in my career," she tells LIVESTRONG.com. "Now, I think I'm actually pretty good at knowing what I can and can't control."

这堂课对她作为登山者的成功至关重要:根据手术几个月后,她在2012年赢得了她的第一场大型比赛。International Federation of Sport Climbing

从那以后,她参加了比赛并参加了数十场国际比赛。2019年,她继续成为日本攀登世界锦标赛的美国女子半决赛。那一年,她还获得了在东京奥运会上的位置,在排位赛中赢得了第七名。her website

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康迪说,攀登最困难的事情是,您很少知道您会遇到什么样的问题。因此,在抱石中,实际上被称为“问题”:登山者的目标是适应和解决它们。您可以为各种情况做准备,并且在比赛当天仍然感到惊讶。

"If I encounter a move that I can't do because I wasn't able to pull hard enough, I know I can go back and start training," she says.

那么,成为该国最好的登山者之一需要什么呢?尽管康迪(Condie)在墙壁和体育馆里花了无数的时间训练,但她将自己的成功(以及惊人的上身力量)归功于一个简单的家庭运动。

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我们在比赛前与康迪(Condie)进行了交谈,以了解这一举动以及如何使用它来建立反对重力的肩膀。

The One Exercise Kyra Condie Swears By

康迪(Condie)进行了许多类型的训练,但是她不能没有的一举一动并不是一定强烈的奥运会升降机。实际上,这是预防伤害的动作:肩部旋转。

"Since incorporating the exercise into my warm-up in the last four or five years, I've never had a shoulder injury, knock on wood," she says. "It's a proper warm-up and strengthens all the small shoulder muscles."

For ultimate benefits, she does the exercise in two directions (internal and external rotation) before every climbing session.

下一次锻炼之前,像奥林匹克运动员一样训练

Ready to start building Kyra Condie-level shoulder strength and stability? Here,梅利莎·加西亚(Melissa Garcia),DPT,,,,a Washington-based physical therapist, demonstrates how to do shoulder rotations with good form.

用两臂进行1组内部旋转,然后重复外部旋转。在两个方向之间来回走动,直到完成每套3组。

内肩旋转

JW Player placeholder image
3
Reps 8
身体的一部分 Shoulders
  1. Attach a resistance band to a sturdy object at torso height. Stand so that it's on your left.
  2. Grasp the free end of the band with your left hand and take several steps away from the anchor point until the band is taught.
  3. 左肘弯曲到90度,然后压在您的身边。
  4. 从您的前臂向侧面开始,将带带向身体中心,同时将肘部紧紧地伸到侧面。
  5. Pause, then slowly return to the band to your side.

提示

If you're having trouble keeping your elbow still, place a rolled up towel between your arm and your ribs and hold it in place while you do the move. If you can't help but let your elbow stray, try using a lighter电阻带加西亚说。

External Shoulder Rotation

3
Reps 8
身体的一部分 Shoulders
  1. Attach a resistance band to a sturdy object at torso height. Stand so that it's on your right.
  2. Grasp the free end of the band with your left hand and take several steps away from the anchor point until the band is taught. The band should cross in front of your body.
  3. 左肘弯曲到90度,然后压在您的身边。
  4. 从对角线从身体上穿过身体开始,将乐队从锚向侧面拉开,同时将肘部紧紧地伸到侧面。
  5. 停下来,然后慢慢回到您面前的乐队。

The Best Resistance Bands for Shoulder Rotations

  • Sunpow Pulp Up Assing Bands($ 19.99,亚马逊
  • Theraband($ 16.12,亚马逊
  • Weluvfit长阻力乐队(13.59美元,亚马逊

要了解有关美国所有团队运动员的更多信息,请参观teamusa.org。从7月23日开始观看东京奥运会,并于8月24日在NBC上观看东京残奥会。

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